The capital of the Republic of Bulgaria is the city of Sofia (1 096 389 inhabitants, 550 metres above sea level). The city lies in the Sofia Plain, enclosed by the Balkan Mountains to the north, the Lozen Mountain to the southeast, Mountain Vitosha to the south, the Lyulin Mountain to the southwest.
HISTORY:
Sofia has a history that goes back thousands of years. Through the centuries, many peoples have inhabited it and added to its rich and diverse history. Numerous Neolithic villages have been discovered in the area, while a chalocolithic settlement has been recently discovered in the very center of modern Sofia.
The Thracian Serdi tribe settled here in the 7th century BC and gave the first recorded name of Sofia -- Serdica. The Byzantines called it Triaditsa and the Slavs - Sredets. The modern city of Sofia was named in the 14th century after the basilica St. Sofia. In Greek, word sofia means wisdom. In the 3rd century AD, the Romans built strong walls around Serdica, their capital of Inner Dacia and an important stopping point on the Roman road from Naisus (present Nish, Yugoslavia) to Constantinople.
Today there are many archaeological sites in Sofia, that display the city's diverse history - the castle gates and towers of Serdica, public buildings and streets thousands of years old. A large part of the ancient city of Serdica is underneath important modern buildings. The ancient city council (bulefteris) is hidden under the "Sheraton" hotel, while a number of basilicas are below the National Historical Museum. The Roman thermal baths are under the Sofia Mineral Baths and a Roman residence with elaborate mosaics is below the "Rila" hotel.
After the Hun invasion of 441, the town was rebuilt by the Byzantines. The Slavs gave Sredets a key role in the First Bulgarian Empire, then in 1018 the Byzantines retook Triaditsa. At the end of the 12th century, the Bulgarians returned and Sredets became a major trading center of the Second Bulgarian Empire. The Turks captured Sofia in 1382 and made it the center of the Rumelian beylerbeyship. The city declined during the feudal unrest of the 19th century, but with the establishment of the Third Bulgarian Empire in 1879, Sofia once again became the capital of Bulgaria.
Rapidly the city's image changed from an Oriental, to a European. Today many streets, buildings, parks, and even whole neighborhoods preserve the architectural style from the turn of the century. Between 1879 and 1939, the population of Sofia grew from 20 000 to 300 000, while today 1 250 000 people live in Sofia.
Since ancient times the city was famous for the abudance of cold and thermal mineral water springs in and around it. The water is still available today and is praised for its numerous qualities. Springs may be found in the city center, as well as in the neighbourhoods: Kniazevo, Gorna Bania, Bankia, Ovcha Kupel and Ivaniane.
Landmarks: Several buildings and venues vie for Sofia's emblem. The most frequent image is of the impressive edifice of St. Alexander Nevski Cathedral and Memorial Church. The temple is the central patriarch's cathedral of the autonomous Bulgarian Orthodox Church. It was completed in 1912 after a design of the Russian architect Pome-rant-sev, approved by the 1st Great National Assembly. The church rises on an area of 3170 sq. m. The altar and the patriarch's throne are cut of multi-coloured Italian marble; 13 Bulgarian and 32 Russian and Czech masters made the wood-carvings, cut the stone bas-reliefs and ornaments, painted the fresoes and the icons. The belfry rises to a height of 50.52 metres; the central dome is gold-plated with a massive gold cross on top.
The Crypt of the cathedral houses a collection of masterpieces of Bulgarian icon painting. Visitors can enjoy the exhibited more than 200 icons and frescos. A souvenir shop sells copies of some of the famous icons, post cards, albums and folders. A remarkable sight is the square around the cathedral, where the Monument to the Unknown Soldier with eternal burning flame is located. An open-air market of national costumes, embroidery and hand-knitted ware and garment and a small antiquarian and arts exposition enliven the square.
Part of the same square is occupied by the St. Sophia Church, dating back to the 4th-6th century AD, which gave the name of the city. In the end of 16th century it was transformed into a mosque for a short time, but soon after the Liberation it was again sanctified as an Orthodox church. Already restored, the church is open to visitors. Regrettably few of the frescoes have been preserved, but some rare icons are still in existence. A valuable exhibit kept in the church is a lock of the hair of the Apostle of Freedom Vassil Levski. Behind the church is the grave of Ivan Vazov (1850-1921), the patriarch of Bulgarian literature. A monument to the poet rises in the small garden in front of the church.
In the eastern part of the square rises the building of the St. St. Cyril and Methodius Foundation, which houses the National Gallery of Foreign Arts. It contains unique exhibits of art from Africa, Asia and Europe, Spanish baroque paintings, some Rembrandts, and tableaux by the modern painter Nikolai Roerich. Opposite to the south of it rises the building of the Academy of Arts, where future artists study icon-painting, restoration of old works of art, painting, sculpture, stage design, etc.
The Ivan Vazov National Theatre is the capital's other emblem. The theatre was founded in 1904, and its building was completed in 1907. Designed in the style of German classicism, it contains many elements of the then fashionable Secession style. The interior was twice renewed, once after the fire in the theatre in 1923, and once during the 1970-1976 period. The hall is flanked by two balconies and there are 850 seats. Two chamber stages are in operation; the one with 150 seats and the other with 100. The theatre employs some of the country's best actors and stage directors, many of whom enjoy popularity all over Europe.
The edifice of the National Assembly (built in 1884) is the third rightful candidate for the city's emblem. A motto inscribed on its main facade reads "Union makes Strength" - a key element of the coat of arms of the Republic of Bulgaria. Opposite its building is the monument to the King Liberator of Bulgaria (inaugurated in 1905) - the Russian Tsar Aleksander II.
To the west of the Parliament building is the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences founded in 1869, and to the east across a small garden rises the St. Kliment of Ohrid University of Sofia, founded in 1888 (and built in 1920 with personal donations by the brothers Evloghi and Hristo Georgievi, whose statues flank the parade entrance of the university) - Bulgaria's oldest higher school. The mausoleum of Battenberg is nearby the university.
The Russian church St. Nikolai is conspicuous from afar with its pointed golden cross. It was built in the years of 1912-1914 by Russian emigrants to Bulgaria. The interior of the church contains wonderful majolica ornaments, Russian-style icons among which stands out the icon of St. Nikolai Chudotvorets (the Wonder-worker) from the Kiev-Pechora Monastery. Next to it to the east is the Museum of Natural Science, with its unique collections of stuffed and live flora and fauna representatives. Visitors show particular interest in the bazaar where they can purchase small rabbits, nutria, parrots, hamsters, canaries and other household pets.
The National Art Gallery and the Ethnographic Museum are housed in the former royal palace. It was built on 1873. During the reign of Prince Aleksander Battenberg the building was entirely reconstructed on the exterior and inside in the Art nouveau (Secession) style, with elements of Neo-rococo and Baroque. Expensive and unique wooden pieces of furniture were arranged in the palace rooms. The National Art Gallery exhibits a collection of well over 12 000 works of art, the oldest dating back to the 18th century. The Bulgarian classical masters of painting and sculpture are represented with their most mature works. The National Ethnographic Museum exhibits a wealth of collections of national costumes, hand-made works of art from Bulgarian people's daily life, tools dating from three or four centuries ago, jewellery, tissues, embroidery and other articles of typical national folk art. The exhibits include scale models of Bulgarian houses and life amenities in them, masks and costumes of the festive Bulgarian calendar rites from different ethnographic regions of the country. At the museum and the gallery there are two stands for souvenirs where one can purchase cards, albums, icons, folk music recordings, hand-made articles imitating originals of national art. Other exhibitions are often displayed in the building of the former royal palace, to fill in the vacant spaces of the impressive place. Opposite to it in diagonal rises the building of the Bulgarian National Bank. Immediately next to it, a former Turkish mosque built on top of the ruins of a Christian Church destroyed by the Ottomans, houses today's Archaeological Museum.
Downtown, in the interior courtyard of the Presidency and Sheraton Hotel rises the famous Roman Rotunda, transformed into the St. Georgi Church during the 4th century AD. Recently restored, it is stunning for its simple and exquisite architecture, the expressive remnants of frescoes and the entire complex of ruins behind the altar. Quite imposing as well are the ruins in the underpass opposite the Presidency, north of TZUM, in the ground-level of Sofia Shop (currently under reconstruction) in Central Hali Square, etc.
The square around the Central Hali building is also noted for its sights. The Hali (1911) were a covered market from the beginning of the century. Today after being reconstructed, they are a useful facility as well as an attractive place for shopping and spending some time at a cup of coffee. The mosque (1576) is in the square, the public bath (1913) is to the east, the ruins of the Roman fortress of Serdica with the corner turrets are to the north, the Synagogue (1909) is situated west of the Hali. St. Petka Samardzhiiska Church is located in the underpass of TZUM (south of the Hali). Vassil Levski was probably buried there, according to the hypothesis. Almost completely dug into the ground, today the whole of it is outstanding. There are attractive coffee bars and other catering establishments in the underpass, as well as many souvenir shops.
Numerous monuments adorn Sofia, and the most popular and honoured by all Bulgarians is the obelisk to the Apostle of Freedom (of 1895), which rises on the spot of his execution.
The Russian Monument is an obelisk rising west of the city centre; it bears a written dedication to the Russian Tsar and the Russian warriors who gave their lives in the war for Bulgaria's liberation.
The Doctors' Monument, dedicated to the medical staff of the Russian army who fell in the war, rises in the garden behind the National Library.
The monuments from the socialist years are more impressive and interesting as a detail of the country's past. These are the Monument to the Soviet Army, south of the University building and the Monument to Freedom in the easternmost part of the Borissova Gradina Park, crowned by a big obelisk.
The monument to the Saint brothers Cyril and Methodius who devised Bulgarian alphabet rises in front of the National Library. Numerous busts of leaders of Bulgarian Revival adorn the alleys of the Borissova Garden Park, as well as effigies of poets, writers and revolutionaries. Two of the most popular bridges in Sofia could well be counted among the capital's monumental spots. The Luvov Most (Lions' Bridge) (formerly known as Sharen Bridge - the motley crowd bridge) over the Vladaiska River lies north of the city centre in the direction of the Central Railway Station. Four lions stay on high pedestals. The Orlov Most (Eagles' Bridge) over the Perlovska Riover lies in the beginning of Tsarigradsko Chaussee Boulevard, which is the road to Plovdiv and Istanbu. Four bronze eagles, facing the four directions of the world, are mounted on 12-metre pylons. The Borissova Garden Park begins from that bridge, stretching to the south-east.
Among the sights of Sofia one could place the streets Graf Ignatieff, Rakovski, and Vitosha Boulevard. Graf Ignatieff Street runs from east to west. It starts at the Perlovski Bridge, adorned in the sculptures of workers and peasants demonstrating the amity between the Bulgarian and the Russian peoples. Numerous shops line the street on both sides until the crossing with Patriarch Evtimii Boulevard and Vassil Levski Boulevard, where rises a monument to Patriarch Evtimii - a man of letters and spiriual leader of the 14th century. Proceeding west, one comes to a small garden with the St. Sedmochislenitsi (St. St. Cyril and Methodius and their Five Disciples) Church.
Transport: Sofia is the largest transport junction of the country. The destinations of transport segments are numerous, and the routes and stopovers - most varied.
City transport in Sofia offers wide opportunities and it is difficult to describe it without a city plan. Every tourist should buy a detailed city map-plan of Sofia showing not only the lines but also the stops of the city transport.
As of 1998 Sofia has one subway line; dozens of bus lines connect the capital with near-by settlements, as well as covering shorter distances in the city itself; trolley buses travel in many directions; trams cut across the entire city. Fixed-route taxi minibuses serve the more outlying quarters. Rent-a-car companies offer their services as well. Environs Most conspicuous to the guests of Sofia are the mountains, which encircle the Sofia Plain. Vitosha, Lyulin and Plana Mountains are interesting and full of sights worth visiting. The present tour guide has a separate chapter on Vitosha Mountain. Lyulin Mountain is situated south-west of the capital city, 3 kilometres from the ring road. Now virtually a part of the city, it is a good place for outings, picnics and walks. Bonsovy polyany are the most frequented place in the mountain. There are interesting areas with deciduous vegetation, beautiful valleys and meadows. Tourist signs mark the routes to Lulin chalets and shelters. Plana Mountain also offers interesting sights for tourists. It is situated about 10 km south of the capital and can be reached by city bus transport or by car along the road to Samokov. Most frequently visited is the Kokalyane Monastery, built in the 10th century by Tzar Samuil. Beautiful frescoes and murals decorate the church, built after Russian patterns. Three of the monks in the monastery serve also in the Bulgarian monastery on Athos (Greece). There is a small scenic waterfall close to the monastery in southern direction. The monastery can be reached after a 45-minutes walk along the footpath above the asphalt road from the Devil's Bridge over the Vedena River. Another popular spot is the glade with Khan Asparoukh oak, called after him because of its age nearing 14 centuries. The oak is believed to have witnessed the days in which Bulgaria was founded. Fields and a lush hazelnut forest surround the place. About 500 metres from the oak on the footpath to the village of Zheleznitsa there is a small water spring. Tourist chalets and shelters abound in this mountain. The Pancharevo Lake (12 km from the capital city) is situated next to the village of Pancharevo. The lake is about 5 km long and 1 km wide. It is suitable for recreation, sunbathing, fishing and water sports - swimming, rowing, surfing, and water skiing. Rowing and water-ski competitions are frequently organised here. Pedalos are available, fishing and bathing in the lake are only allowed in strictly limited areas. Numerous small private restaurants can be found around the lake, Lebeda (the Swan) being the most popular of these. The Iskar Dam is another large water reservoir near Sofia; it lies 25 km south of the city, and is a very good recreation spot where aquatic sports can be practised. The Shtur-kelovo gnezdo (Stork's nest) Resort is a place worth visiting. Special attention is paid to strict observance of bathing and recreation rules, because the lake is also a drinking water reservoir for the capital. There are numerous small restaurants at the lakeside; fruits and vegetables are often offered for sale. Within Vitosha Mountain the most interesting landmarks are the Boyana Church (built in three stages - 11th, 13th and 19th centuries) and the Dragalevtsy Monastery (14th century), both considered the heralds of European Renaissance. Most interesting are the frescoes (1259) in the Boyana Church, which art experts today rate them as a peak of realistic art of those times. The church is inluded in UNESCO List of world heritage. Remarkable are the frescoes portraying the donors of the churBankya is 22 km from the capital in the foothills of Lyulin Mountain. It is one of the villa areas of Sofia. The town is a balneological center for cardiovascular and pulmonary ailments. It can be reached by bus or by a regular railway line. Wonderful places for picnic and tourist outings surround it. The small town has several galleries, many restaurants and cafe, small clubs and a race-course. The Kremikovtsy Monastery (15th century) is located 30 km north of Sofia in the southern slopes of the Stara Planina Mountain. Its frescoes are treasured as a revelation of a new vision in church mural painting of that time. The church itself is very small yet very well preserved. Tourists rarely visit the place. The Kourilo Monastery stands at the mouth of the Iskar gorge near the village of Kourilo, 18 km from the capital. It can be reached via the road to Mezdra or by a passenger train on the line connecting Sofia with Northern Bulgaria. The church was built and painted in the 15th century. Along the gorge, 9 km from the Eliseina station and at a 3-hour walk from the Prolet stop lies the Sedemte Prestola (The Seven Thrones) Monastery. It dates back to the 16th century and its icons and murals were painted in stages. The central nave of the church is divided into 7 chapels (thrones) and is adorned with a very beautiful wooden chandelier
