The town of Assenovgrad (52 116 inhabitants, 180 metres above sea level) is situated in the western part of the Gornotrakiiska (Upper Thracian) Lowland, in the northern foots of the Western Rhodopes, at a place where the Cheperarska River runs from the mountain into the valley.
It is 169 km south-east of Sofia, 19 km south-east of Plovdiv, 84 km north of Smolyan, 96 km west of Haskovo and 81 km north-west of Kurdzhali. This is the most sacral Bulgarian town. A town with extremely interesting past.
History: This fact is explained by its favourable geographic location - the attractive combination of the mountain and the valley, its mild climate, fertile soil and the fact that here is the entrance of the most convenient passage through the Rhodope Mountains connecting Thrace with the Aegean Region. There was an ancient (Thracian) settlement on the territory of this town, and later on a medieval village was founded there. Within its surroundings more than 100 Thracian mounds with a lot of objects were found. The town played its significant role in the medieval period as a strongly fortified site, which witnessed severe battles. The town is first mentioned under the name of Stanimahos in the statute (1083) of the Bachkovo Monastery, whose founder, the Byzantine military commander of Georgian origin Grigorii Bakuriani, had conquered the town shortly before that. Later on the chronicles of the successive crusades within the period 1096 - 1204 gave it the names of Stanimako, Estanimak, Skribentsion. Under the name of Stanimaka (from the word of Greek origin "stenimahos" meaning fortified narrow place) the town left its deep traces in history. In 1230 Tsar Ivan Assen II fortified and expanded the strong Stanimaka's Fortress, called Petrich, which act was celebrated by putting an inscription, carved above its entrance. This is the reason for the fortress to be renamed to Assenova Krepost (Fortress), and the town of Stanimaka, located below it - to be renamed to Assenovgrad in 1934.
Later on the town was either Bulgarian or within the Byzantine Empire. In 1364 the town was conquered by Tsar Ivan Alexander and remained within Bulgarian territories until his death when it was regained by the Turks. During the long Turkish Rule Stanimaka had lost its significance and gradually declined. The town was plundered and put on fire by the kurdzhalii (Turkish brigands) three times. Its inhabitants made their living mainly by growing vineyards (production of Mavrud type of wines) and silkworm breeding (production of silk). After the Liberation, this was a small agricultural town, which remained within the borders of Eastern Roumelia as long as 1885. At the end of 19th century the phylloxera spoiled the vineyards and mass tobbacco planting and growing commenced thereon. The glory of Assenovgrad as a sacral centre, formed during the eneolite and existing as such until now, explains the presence of so many cult-related buildings in the town and its surroundings - 5 monasteries, 12 churches and more than 50 chapels.
Landmarks: The Museum of History is in the centre of the town with its three sections: Archaeology, Revival Period and Ethnography. Ethnographic Exhibition on Lifestyle in the Old Town is accommodated in a renaissance style building dating back to 19th century, presenting the domestic style of living and culture of a wealthy family in the town. There is also a Paleontology Museum, established as a branch of the Bulgarian Academy of Science in 1995. It is housed in the ex-youth house in Badelema Area. The exibits include skletons and fossils of animals, having lived 7-8 million years ago. A major sample is that of Dinoterrium Giganteum - a giant animal, quite similar to the elephant. This is the only skeleton of such an animal, found in Bulgaria, which is very well preserved.
Extremely valuable church in the town is St. Joan Predtecha Church (The Precursor) dating back to 13th-14th centuries, which has one nave, with three-wall abcide without nartex. St. George (Ambelinski) Church looks like a natural continuation of the steep mountainous hills, with stone columns and three domes, one of which has a 12-wall shape and a high belfry. Constructed by master builders, this church is one of the most representative and imposing temples of the Revival Period. Another remarkable church is St. Georgi (Metoshki) Church erected in 18th century on the foundations of an old church from 12th century. The highly artistic wall paintings are drawn by Zakhari Zograf. He is also did the wall paintings in the temple and spring St. Joan Predtecha (The Precursor), next to the St. Holy Virgin - Annunciation Church (1836). The Holy Virgin Church, the so called "The Deep Church", built in 1765 on the foundations of an older church, destroyed by the Turks. It has a marvellous wooden iconostasis of walnut tree, carved and painted by the masters of art from the Debar Art School. St. Dimitur Church was built in 1866. Special interest deserves the D. Shterev's piece of art - "Noah's Ark" because of its extremely rare iconography. The town has several old houses of the Revival time with original architecture and beautiful wood-carvings.
Transport: Assenovgrad is connected to the rest of the country mostly by bus transport and by railway. There are regular bus lines to Plovdiv (every 30 minutes), Smolyan, Chepelare, Pamporovo, Bachkovo Monastery, Haskovo, Kurdzhali and a lot of other smaller villages and settlements within the region. The bus station and the railway station are located next to each other on the left bank of Chepelarska (Chaya) River. The town is the last station of Plovdiv - Assenovgrad railway line. Public bus transport is also available in the town.
Surrounding areas: 2 km south of the town, above the road to Smolyan stands the historical Assenova Krepost (Fortress), which had existed even during the Thracian ages, but became strategically important in medieval ages after the battle at Klokotnitsa (1230). The feudal castle of the fortress with the tower and the two water reservoirs are thoroughly studied and conserved. The relatively well-preserved building - the church "Holy Mother of God from Petrich" was restored in 1934 and 1985, and the restoration of the wall paintings was completed in 1991. The same year the church was awarded a statute of functioning temple. There is a guide, whose working hours are from 8.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
11 km south of Assenovgrad, along the road to Smolyan, is located the second large and significant Bulgarian monastery - Bachkovo Monastery "St. Assumption of the Holy Virgin" (refer to the Rhodope Mountains related chapter herein). This extremely interesting cultural and historical centre amazes with its architecture, wall paintings, icons and precious church plate. The guides are available from 8.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. all the week round. 3 km from the town of Assenovgrad is the St. Kirik and Yulita Monastery (Gornovodenski Monastery). Built up in the Middle Ages its impresses with its architecture, the valuable wall paintings and icons, which made it remarkable cultural monument. 8 km east of the town, along the road to Parvomai, close to the village of Zlatovruh, is situated St. Nedelya Arapovski Monastery - one of the few monasteries, located and built up in the open fields. It was erected in 1856-1868 and as early as 1868 a Bulgarian school with the monastery opened its gates. The wall paintings in the church and the chapel, dating back to 1864, are very precious. In the yard of the monastery the well-known haidoutin Angel Voivoda had built a stone tower with beautiful bow-window rooms above it, which served as a watchtower and defence facility. There is a regular bus stop of all the buses to Parvomai.
One of the most interesting prehistoric sights in the neighbourhood of Assenovgrad is found in the village of Dolnoslav (13 km south-east, on the road to Kurdzhali) - the Lopkite area. There is the only cult centre, well studied and described, which had satisfied the religious and other spiritual needs of the prehistoric inhabitants of present South Bulgaria and North Greece. To visit this sight one may take the buses running in the direction of Kurdzhali. The Thracian rock sanctuaries are extremely interesting, the most mysterious of them is that of Belantash (in the Rhodope Massif of Dobrostan, close to Sini Vruh quarter). There was found a silver votive tablet of Hercu-les, presented as Dio-nisius. Four sanctuaries dedicated to the Thracian mounted warrior were found nearby Assenovgrad.
9 km away from the town, east of Bachkovo Monastery, is located the world famous Chervenata Stena Bio-sphere Reserve (The Red Wall) of a total area of 3029 hectares. More than 600 spices of plants grow there, large part of them being ende-mi-tes and relicts, included in the "Red Book of Endangered Species" of Bulgaria. 45 km south of Assenovgrad, in the proximity of the town of Luki and above the village of Belitsa, in Gradishte Mountain (western part of the Rhodope Mountains), is located one of the most honoured Christian holy places - Krastova Gora (Crest Forest). Close to Mt. Krustov Vruh (1413 metres) there was a Christian monastery, which was burned by the Turks and the monks were killed as well. The place is considered a holly place - if someone overnights there, there is a chance for him to be cured, if ill. Of course, this is valid for truly religious persons. Now there is a church and always lots of people crowd there, especially on September 14th - the day of the Holly Crest. There is a regular bus transport to the village of Borovo. From there one may set out by car or on foot (1-1.30 hours). Assenovgrad is a key starting point for tourist hikes across the Dobrostan Massif of Western Rhodope Mountains (refer to the Rhodope Mountains related chapter herein).
